Backcountry skiing in Chamonix: Some of my favourite ski runs as a local guide

Hej - I’m Neil Mackay, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide based in Chamonix for the winter and summer seasons. I’m going into my 10th year guiding skiers and boarders to some of the best classic lines in Chamonix. While I never claim to know every inch of the area, I’ve gotten to know it pretty well over the last 25+ years.

In this article, I’ll share five backcountry ski runs: one from each of Chamonix’s ski areas. I’ll guide you through how to access each run, where to ski, and what to expect.

Disclaimer: The descriptions aren't in full, you will still need a map and compass. These are also not beginner ski runs. Having backcountry terrain experience, along with avalanche safety training is always needed when going into the backcountry. Hire a guide if you don’t have this.

Five great runs in Chamonix

1. Grands Montets – Long run from the Bochard lift

This is a long north-facing run with a mix of steep sections, rolling terrain and tree skiing. It’s one of the valley’s longest descents and holds snow well throughout the season.
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• Access Point: Start at the Bochard lift. From the top, you have the entrance just below. 
• Terrain & Directions: The descent starts with a steep section before opening into rolling terrain with plenty of room to find your own line. If you want to avoid the steep section, you can go down the piste and traverse into the off-piste further down. Stick skier’s left for a cleaner fall line or skier’s right for terrain that’s more playful but slightly less direct. As you descend  the tree section, stay skier’s left to go all the way to the valley, or skier’s right to connect back toward the Bochard lift system. Some touring back to the lift might be needed here. 
• Why It’s Special: This is one of the valley’s longest uninterrupted runs. The north-facing aspect holds snow well, and it’s a nice mix of alpine terrain and tree skiing.
• Required Level: Intermediate to advanced. The steep entrance requires a strong skier and the length of the run will make your legs burn.
• Pro Tip: Beware of hidden rocks (“shark attacks”), especially early in the season. Take it slow in areas where snow coverage looks thinner.

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2. Brevent – Lac Noirs to Combe de la Gliere

A varied route with steep couloirs for advanced skiers and open fields for intermediates. The area feels remote but is easily accessible, with wide spaces for big turns.
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• Access Point: From the Cornu lift, skin or bootpack up to Col du Lac Cornu. Continue upward to Lac Noirs to begin the descent.
• Terrain: Once at Lac Noirs, advanced skiers can drop skier’s left into steep couloirs, while intermediate skiers should aim straight into the Combe de la Gliere. The Combe itself offers wide fields with plenty of room for big turns. Stick skier’s right in the Combe to avoid any flat areas and find the best way back to the resort.
• Why It’s Special: The scenery here is unbeatable, with panoramic views of the Aiguille Rouge and Mont Blanc. It feels remote and adventurous, but it’s not overly committing. 
• Required Level: Intermediate to advanced. The couloirs and icy traverses demand solid skills, but the open Combe is a great option for intermediate skiers.
• Pro Tip: Bring ski crampons for  the traverse. It can be a bit icy. The ideal season is mid-January and onwards. 

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3. Flégère – Point 2837 du Dards

This tour combines a straightforward ascent with forgiving powder runs. The terrain is varied, with steeper options for advanced skiers and softer snow at lower elevations.
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• Access Point: Take the Floria lift, and from there take skiers left and ski down to around  2,000m and from there you start skinning. Tour past Lac Blanc and the refuge and head up to the summit of Point du Dards (2,837m).
• Terrain: Great run to ski powder. The terrain is forgiving, but there are some steeper sections that advanced skiers can take. As you drop lower, the slopes catch more sun, softening the snow for spring-like conditions. 
• Why It’s Special: Nice views across the Mont Blanc Massif with varied & fun terrain. It’s a great introduction to touring for confident off-piste skiers.
• Required Level: Intermediate to advanced. While the tour itself is manageable, the skier need to be able to handle varied terrain / snow conditions. 
• Pro Tip: Use the lower skin track on the way up. It avoids exposed sections that can get icy and tricky, saving you stress and danger at times.

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4. Le Tour – Aiguillette’s Back Bowls

A backcountry area with diverse terrain, from steep lines to easier options. It’s a remote spot with great views of Chamonix but requires careful navigation to avoid terrain traps.
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• Access Point: From the highest lift at Domaine de la Balme, skin or bootpack up the ridge to the summit of Aiguillette (2,321m).
• Terrain: You can ski into the back bowls. There are steep and challenging lines, but also easier ones. There can be wind loaded slopes, be careful with these. 
• Why It’s Special: The back bowls feel remote and offer a sense of exploration. The varied terrain allows for creative line choices (if avalanche conditions allow).
• Required Level: Beginner to Advanced. It all depends on line choice. 
• Pro Tip: Terrain traps and dead ends can catch you out in the back bowls. If you’re not familiar with the area, hire a guide to ensure a safe and enjoyable descent.

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5. Aiguille du Midi – La Vallée Blanche

A classic glacier run with multiple route options, from straightforward lines to technical descents. The terrain includes crevasses and flat sections, requiring glacier safety gear and experience.
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• Access Point: Take the Aiguille du Midi cable car from Chamonix to 3,812 meters. The descent starts with the arête—a steep ridge that has a fixed handrail for safety during the season. Here,  crampons are advised and if you are there with a guide most of the times you will be roped up.
• Terrain: A mix of wide glacial fields, séracs, and crevasses. The classic route is straightforward, but steeper options like the Grand Envers require technical skill and confidence in off-piste terrain.
• Why It’s Special: It’s 20 plus km of skiing through some of the most stunning high-alpine scenery in the world, with 2,700m of vertical descent (if conditions allow skiing all the way to the valley).
• Required Level: Confident intermediates for the classic route; advanced skiers for steeper variations. Glacier safety gear is essential and hiring a guide is strongly recommended. 
• Pro tip: if you are going with a guide, buy a ticket and get a time slot. Snowboarders: bring poles for the flat sections at the end. 

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Final Thoughts: Ski Safe - Chamonix's terrain can be unforgiving

Chamonix’s backcountry is as rewarding as it is demanding. The ski runs I’ve shared are some of my favourites, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg of the possibilities in the area.

That said, the mountains here don’t forgive mistakes. Always check avalanche conditions, carry the right gear, and hire a guide if you’re unsure. Backcountry skiing is about having fun, but coming home safe is more important!

So, whether you’re looking to ski steep couloirs or easy cruising through the bowls, take your time, respect the terrain, and enjoy the ride. Chamonix will always have more to explore, just make sure you’re ready for it. See you out there!
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If you want to check out some of my tours or book me as a guide, it can be donehere.
/Neil